This is what the rear end looked like with the chrome bumper off.  The car was hit in the early 70s.  They would not straighten the metal just fill in the dents with gallons of bondo and bronze solder to plug the holes. 
     Dean cut out the bottom of the rear end.  He then welded in a new rear end panel as you can see.  The trunk floor had to be reattach to the panel.      Also remember the gas tank is right there.                   We went down to the metal.  Now it is all metal with very little fill.  All those gray spots are the welding of the trunk floor.   

 I pulled both the seats out and stripped all the material down to the frame.

You are looking at a forty-one piece of foam.

We brought the frames to be sandblasted.  $120 and two cans of Rustoleum later, we were ready to assemble the seats.  But first, we had to go back to the catalog to order parts.
2 seats webbing with hooks  $29.95
1 seat foam set L. side         $79.95
1 seat foam set R side          $79.95
2 headrests assemblies         $79.95

I still have to order the vinyl covering whick runs $399.99 on sale. I saved $18 by using the old cardboard seat stiffeners.  More to come.

Well a lot has happened since Aug.  I have gone to Physical Therapy and  my strength  is getting better.  I still cannot stand for more than ten mins.  But the car still needs to be worked on.  So I have moved it to a friend's house who is a master body man.  He has stripped the car of every piece that can be taken off.  We are now doing a complete restoration.

We took off the windscreen, both fenders, both doors, hood, and trunk.  Found out that the car had been hit in the rear end.  There was bronze work and an inch to two inches of filler.

Took all the filler out and straightened the rear end.  We will cut out the rear lower valance and install a new part from Victoria British.

Pulled both fenders and doors sanded and primed, then guide coated

Sanded and fixed any bad spots on the rear right fender.  Ready for priming.

You can see what forty years of covered up metal just rusted out underneath the filler.

Pulled the seats and stripped both floors and found more rust and holes too.

Found out about a product call Chassis Saver.  It is great.  It will stop the rust and coat the parts completely.

This was a lot of work and hard to get to.  I am not a small man.

 Guide coated the fender, sanded the same, and found two low spots at the lower part of the fender behind the wheel.
  It took a very long time to do.  Seeing as I had back surgery,  my wife helped with all the heavy work, like jacking up the car so I could sit and sand for ten min. and then rest for 20 min.  Working on the car helps me stay sane.  You can only sit and watch TV before you start drooling and waiting for the mail to read the ad papers.

I used a Scott pad to prep the area for a glaze coat.  Going to get a heavier grit (120 or 80) for the center of the low spot.

 I am still out here.  It has been over 2 years since I wrote anything.  Well, a lot has gone down, mainly to me not the car.
   Lets talk about the car.  I painted the hood (bonnet) and the driver's door.  I installed gas hood holders. They were easy to install; get a set.  Put new tires on and had the brake drums and wheel hubs power coated.  The carbs started to act up and they are still not working right.
    Started on the driver's side bumper to bumper.  The hood needs to be aligned better than it is. Also the window in the door is loose.
   That is all for now.  Wish me luck.

Hood off the MG

1) Took the hood off and put it on a stand at my body class.
2) Started sanding with a DA (dual action sander) with a 36 grit paper.
3) Started working on the dent on the front edge of the hood.  We banged it out with a hammer from the underside and then filled what was left with filler.
4) Sanded hood again. This time with 80 grit paper.
5) Flipped the hood and sanded the underside of the hood to prepare it for primer.

 6) Applied 4 coats of ppg primer.

 7) Applied one coat of guide coat.

I was away but I am back and painting

Let me tell you about the door prep 1) disassemble the door 2) sand down the door with 36 grit paper 3) hammer out and fill in any dents 4) sand the door with 80 grit paper after the filler dries 5) put glaze on to fix any problem spots 6) sand the glaze 7) glaze again any low spots 8) sand those spots 9) now you can put 3 coats of primer 10) now you put on a guide coat 11) then you sand off the guide coat with 240, 460, or (if you have a lot of time )1000 grit paper 12) you are ready to paint 13) now you lay down 3 coats of base paint 14) let it dry and the you lay down 3 coats of clear. then you have to sand more but we will stop for another day because I am tired.